Week one task - Fabric technology

Images obtained from www.farfetch.com.

Here are a selection of Givenchy garments I chose to look at the different types of fabrics used within Givenchys RTW collections. Some of the fabrics used are as follows :-

• Viscose
• Silk
• Cotton
• Polyamide

Below I will research one garment futher to look at what fabric it is made from and what the fiber content is and how is derived, produced and it's characteristics.

The garments fibre content is composed from 85% Viscose and 15% Silk.

VISCOSE

Viscose is a kind of rayon, it is created from a combination of natural and man-made components. It is made by dissolving cellulose (which is mainly wood pulp) and reforming it in filaments. Viscose takes its name from the intermediate viscous liquid, which has the colour and fluidity of honey.

The chemical and mechanical processes used to dissolve the cellulose and create the final filaments all contribute to the final properties of the thread. Cuprammonium rayon is dissolved in copper oxide and ammonia and 'Cupro' has become a recognised name for some forms of viscose. There are other chemical processes, and in fact, some modern processes for manufacturing viscose use water for the initial treatment of the raw cellulose.

The filaments are created using nozzles of different sizes and shapes, which can be stretched, doubled, twisted or spun. This can take place either in water or in warm air. With so many variables, manufacturers are developing fibres and fabrics with new weights and wearing properties all the time.

Fibre Characteristics :-

Viscose drapes and swings beautifully and the material is softer than cotton and more springy than silk. It is comfortable to wear and is great for dyeing. . None of these are properties that are associated with man-made fibres, or any material that comes from a tree, for that matter.

Viscose has a silky appearance and feel, and also has the ability to breathe in a manner similar to cotton weaves. In addition to being an inexpensive material to use in lightweight clothing. One of the more popular properties of viscose rayon is that the fabric tends to drape very well.

A disadvantage of viscose is that most viscose fabrics do need ironing once they have been washed. This is not true of all viscose, and new ones are being created where the filament itself is more crease-resistant.

Viscose is the most natural of the synthetic fibers because it’s made from the cellulose from plant cells. After being dissolved out for spinning into thread it returns to being pure cellulose without chemical alteration. Viscose can be manufactured plain or shiny, as required. Depending on its sheen, delicate qualities or curliness, viscose can therefore look like silk, cotton or wool, and even typical linen fibers can be easily reproduced.
Viscose characteristics: Viscose is more absorbent than cotton but not as robust when wet.
Viscose fabric care: Viscose can be washed by hand or machine-washed with delicate detergent on the delicate cycle at 30 to 40 degrees C. Viscose should not be rubbed, wrung, spun or dried in the drier, but hung up when soaking wet or rolled in a cloth to carefully squeeze out the water. Press viscose at a silk setting while still damp, with a steam iron or under a damp cloth. Viscose cannot be dry-cleaned. Being composed of wood-fibre, the fabric by its very nature retains water, so it can take a long time to dry on a clothesline.

SILK

Silk is a natural protein fibre, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The best-known type of silk is obtained from cocoons made by the larvaeof the mulberry silkworm Bombyx mori reared in captivity (sericulture). The shimmering appearance of silk is due to the triangular prism-like structure of the silk fiber which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles thus producing different colors.

Fibre Characteristics :-

Silk has an elegant, soft luster and beautiful drape its good absorbency makes it comfortable to wear in warm weather and while active. Its low conductivity keeps warm air close to the skin during cold weather. It is often used for clothing such as shirts, ties, blouses, formal dresses and high fashion clothes.

Silk also dyes well with natural and synthetic dyes, it has a soft feel and retains its shape well. Silk is labour intensive so costly in price. It is also lightweight can easily be folded and does not crease easily, it is also heat resistant and does not burn easily. Silk is also a strong fabric as it's fibres will not be torn easily.

History:

Legend has it that silk was discovered around 2640 B.C. when a Chinese Empress, Hsi Ling Shi, became intrigued by silkworms. She was given the task of studying the silkworm by the Emperor. He wanted to know if the silkworm’s thread could create more happiness for his people. She then learned how to unwind the silk from the cocoon and make fabric from it. Thus, the silk industry in China began and China still holds the monopoly on the industry today with 54% of the silk production. The beautiful fabrics produced from silk fiber were often coveted in other countries. Eventually other countries began producing silk fabrics.

Production:

The production of cultivated silk is known as sericulture. The stages of production are as follows:

1. The silk moth lays eggs.
2. When the eggs hatch the caterpillars are fed mulberry leaves.
3. When the silkworms are about 35 days old they are 10,000 times heavier than when they hatched. They are now ready to spin a silk cocoon.
4. The silk is produced in two glands in the silkworm’s head and the forced out in liquid form through openings called spinnerets.
5. The silk solidifies when it comes in contact with the air.
6. The silkworm spins approximately 1 mile of filament and completely encloses itself in a cocoon in about 2 or three days.
7. The silkworm then goes through stages and changes into a moth; however, the silkworm is usually killed with heat before it reaches this stage. The silkworms are killed because once they reach the moth stage, the moth secretes a fluid to dissolve the silk so it can emerge from the cocoon. This damages the cocoon and the silk and the silk then becomes a lower quality. Some silkworms are allowed to live to be used for breeding.
8. The silk is obtained from the undamaged cocoons by brushing the cocoon to find the outside ends of the filament.
9. The silk filaments are then wound on a reel. One cocoon contains approximately 1,000 yards of silk filament. The silk at this stage is known as raw silk.
10. A yarn can now be formed by combining several filaments of silk.

Countries Producing Silk:

China 54%

India 14% (mainly known for hand-woven wild silks with rich textures)

Japan 11% (high-quality silks)

Thailand (hand-woven iridescent silks)

The United States tried its hand at sericulture but all attempts failed.

There are over 30 countries producing silk today.

Characteristics of Silk:

Aesthetics: Cultivated silk is a beautiful luxurious fiber with a smooth luxurious hand. This type of silk can be dyed and printed in bright colors that are very pleasing to the eye. Wild silks are duller and have a more coarse hand and texture.

Durability: Silk’s abrasion resistance is moderate. However, it is ranked high in strength for natural fibers.

Comfort: Silk fabrics have good absorbency. Fabrics made from silk are comfortable in the summer and warm in the winter.

Appearance Retention: Silk fabrics have only moderate resistance to wrinkling.

Care: It is often recommended that silk garments be dry-cleaned. When hand or machine washing washable silk garments, test for water spotting in an obscure place because silk water-spots easily. Perspiration and sunlight weakens and yellows silk fabrics. Upholstery and drapery fabrics that contain silk should be protected from prolonged exposure to direct sunlight

Also whist researching I found this thought it may be useful in the coming weeks.